From Domaine to Farmhouse: A Pinot for Everyone
Tasting Domaine Drouhin and Roserock as part of the Drouhin Oregon Tasting Experience
Our second day started with the lightest mist of rain on a classical autumn morning. Driving past our stops from the previous day, our tiny Nissan Kicks rental crawled up a steep hill, the yellow dew covered leaves dangling from trees kissing the roof of the car as we whizzed past. Day Two was all about Dayton, and we were hitting three wineries all within ten minutes of each other: Domaine Drouhin, Domaine Serene, and Remy Wines.
We pulled off the main road and down a manicured private driveway, vines above and below us with the fog covered valley far below. At the bottom of the drive was this old French inspired tasting room, big and stately though not so grand it was imperious or intimidating. My partner and I waltzed in, dipping out as the rain intensified into this warm Burgundian lodge. With its natural wood beams and shutter style windows, I have to say the actual tasting room of Domaine Drouhin was my absolute favorite. There are some places you visit and you think to yourself, "I wouldn't mind never leaving." A personalized tasting menu with our names greeted us at our table letting us know we'd be simultaneously tasting both Domaine Drouhin and RoseRock's portfolios. Our charming host walked us through the two estates' flights, skillfully dipping back and forth between the historic French family, who’s roots go back a hundred years ago to Burgundy, and the modern Oregon satellite run by Véronique Boss-Drouhin. As our host explained, the grape growing and winemaking methods between RoseRock and Domaine Drouhin estates are exactly identical; the key difference between the two portfolios was the terroir, the soul of the land derived from the soil the grapes are grown on. (Domaine Drouhin, where we tasted was 25 miles north of RoseRock, in the Dundee Hills AVA, while RoseRock is in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA). We were enchanted, both by the tasting itself and by the behind the scenes sneak peek at their holiday photoshoot.
As we were visiting just post-harvest, we noticed a large group of people touring the tasting room below. They were from Argyle Winery where we tasted the day prior. It was astonishing to witness such a departure from the culture I’d known so far: to openly invite other neighboring winemakers in behind closed doors to discuss how harvest had been. It was a shock compared to the highly competitive nature of Californian winemakers I'd previously observed. It was one of the most impactful parts of our tour, seeing how close the industry is in the Willamette Valley where wineries aren't just neighbors geographically, but in the familial sense where people behave neighborly.
Our next stop was Domaine Serene, directly across the road from our first tasting of the day. This was more along the lines of what I was expecting from the name. Even though Domaine Drouhin is part of the Drouhin family which dates all the way back to historic Burgundian winemakers, they don't overtly flaunt their pedigree. Domaine Serene was another world separated by 100 feet of paved public road.
It's the sort of estate you'd expect to visit in Napa Valley. A winding driveway lined with stately trees, rows and rows of trellised vines visible just beyond, and at the top of the hill a grand villa surrounded by curated landscape and bubbling water features. Front row parking for members and electric vehicles with an option for valet and limousines. It's a place that makes the wealthy feel instantly at ease, where all your worries melt away so you can enjoy the luxury guilt free. Inside to the right, guest check in with a gift shop opposite and a floor to ceiling portrait of the Evenstad family smiling warmly at you as you enter their estate. Deep leather chairs wait for their guests under a chandelier of bronzed grape leaves. A gold embellished leather tasting menu waits tantalizingly, beckoning you to indulge. Inside, not only was there a variety of flights to choose from as well as house made snacks, but a note under each wine with its according rating. Domaine Serene is after all, America's most awarded winery, with both reds and whites that regularly collect 95+ points on most reviewers lists.
While I was dizzy with awe that I was here, getting to taste through the wines I've admired on my shelves, my partner was hungry prior to lunch and decided to order the 'bread' off the appetizers. While only $7, 'bread' was a humble misnomer. A trio of warmed house made breads with locally sourced lavender butter, topped with the most delicate fleur de sel. My mouth still waters at the memory. Our host was confident, boyishly charming, and eager to please a winning combination a place like this. It was such a peaceful place on a crisp fall day that the Barbie-themed bachelorette party off in an adjacent room seemed a delightful juxtaposition to the reserved tasting room with it's bright white crown moldings, the gilded grandfather clock, the dozens of empty magnums and jeroboams signed by various VIPS like basketball teams and politicos. It was a memorable first visit, and certainly not the last.
The coziest, most inviting tasting room in Dayton
We stopped again at the Red Hills Market to satiate our appetite before our last tasting of the day, an unknown to me and my coworkers in Reno: Remy Wines. I'd found them in an email one day from Wine Enthusiast: "8 Must-Visit Willamette Valley Wineries, According to Insiders." While I had stocked our itinerary chockfull of vineyards I'd had more exposure to both in my store, this seemed like a worthwhile place to add to our agenda. The first line of the recommendation for this winery read, "Queer winemaker Remy Drabkin defies convention." I was sold. As somebody who identifies as queer, I'm always down to support LGBTQIA+ businesses, especially in an industry that at times skews toward the conventional, to put it politely. I didn't know what to expect when my partner and I pulled up at a pretty red farmhouse with rain-soaked LGBT and Black Lives Matter flags hanging from the covered patio. I was hopeful to say the least.
Compared to our earlier tastings in the day with their international audience, Remy Wines seemed like more of a family operation, a refreshing change of pace. We walked into the brightly colored living room stuffed with tables and chairs, and two podiums, one by the door to greet guests and pack orders and another by the patio door with a number of bottles sitting at the ready. Late in the day, the temperature had dropped sharply as the rain picked up, so my partner and I gratefully huddled inside with two other couples for the last tasting of the day. Whatever I was expecting, I was deeply surprised by their flight list of Italian varietals. Perhaps it was the French tone of the early morning, but the earthy, spicy wines Remy creates were a breath of fresh air and made me homesick for my local wine region, Amador.
These powerful, unique red wines kept surprising me with their individual characteristics unlike what I'd been educated to expect from these varieties. With high tannins and wild acid, it was clear these wines could take some age in our cellar, and so we happily left with three bottles to add to our collection. My favorite part of our tasting was the introduction of a new grape variety to me: Lagrein, a black grape from Northern Italy’s Alto Adige. A peppery, spicy varietal with black fruit notes, it bears a striking resemblance to cabernet sauvignon, but more sultry and seductive. I was blown away by this introduction and I’ve been seeking out other examples of lagrein ever since. Remy is definitely a place I'll continue to visit, and I strongly recommend if you're looking for a winery off the beaten path that supports the local community and offers unfined, unfiltered, uncommon varietals for the region, stop by Remy. It'll be well worth your time.
Resources
Domaine Drouhin
Located 6750 NE Breyman Orchards Road, Dayton, OR
Open Daily 10 AM - 3 PM, excluding holidays
Starts at $25 per person for parties of 1-8 people
Reservations required, walk-ins subject to availability
No outside food, dogs on leashes welcome
Domaine Serene Clubhouse
Located 6555 Northeast Hilltop Lane Dayton, OR 97114
Open Daily 11 AM - 4 PM
Starts at $50 per person for parties of 1-10 people
Reservations required, walk-ins subject to availability
No outside food, food available for purchase, dogs allowed on patio
Remy Wines
Located 17495 NE McDougall Road Dayton, OR 97114
Open Daily 12 PM - 5 PM
$30 deposit per person (non-refundable, can be applied to tasting) of 1-6 people
Reservations recommended